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 Заголовок сообщения: Freestyle Skills
СообщениеДобавлено: Чт дек 22, 2005 7:12 pm 
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Очень хорошая статейка!
Осталось, чтоб пришел добрый человек и перевел, хотя бы часть))
Ищем добрых людей!


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Basic skills


One foot riding


When riding one footed, the vast majority of people prefer to place the non-pedaling foot on the crown. However, on larger frames (over 26" or so, especially if the crown is rounded rather than square) it may be easier to bend the knee at a 90 degree angle, and ride with the foot pointing backward, pressing the side of your calf against the frame. It is also possible to ride with the leg out in front (as seen in George Peck's Rough Terrain Unicycling film), however this is generally considered the most difficult.

A 20" wheel is usually preferred for learning, as with most freestyle skills. However, the momentum of a larger wheel will make one-foot riding up hills much easier. The more grip your pedals have, the better for one foot riding, as this will enable you to extend the usuable range of motion. With pinned pedals, you can not only push the wheel pedal down, but also pull it backwards at the bottom of the cycle and forwards at the top. The pedals will frequently scrape your legs while learning, though, so if you use pinned pedals, appropriate protective clothing should be worn.

A smooth hard floor, such as a gym or hallway, will help, but a sidewalk is perfectly fine. When riding, try to be smooth in your pedaling. The instict will be to push down very hard on the pedal to get enough momentum to keep the wheel moving, but you will find it easier to maintain a smooth, even tempo, just as if pedaling with both feet. Use your body to control your balance. Lean backwards and forwards, bending at the waist, to keep your center of gravity over the unicycle when you can't control it with your foot. When you first take one foot off, your wheel will be in front of you, pointing backwards, and you will be bent over at the waist to keep your balance centered over the uni. Whether this is just what naturally happens, or purposefully doing this will actually help your learning, I don't know.

When you first start to get the hang of it, it is normal to run out of momentum after 3 or 4 revolutions. Just keep practicing and you'll slowly start to go farther, but a slight downhill may be helpful.

You may notice a significant wobble from side to side at first, but with a little practice, you should be able to travel in a line as straight as using both feet, especially with a foot on the crown.

There are three ways of learning to ride one-footed. Most people recommend method 2, or a combination of 1 and 2.

1. As you ride along, put one foot on the crown of your unicycle and try to keep riding. Keep practising until you are able to do it. Some say that the transistion is the hardest part, and by the time you get that down smoothly, one foot riding will be pretty easy.
2. Put less and less pressure on the pedal with that foot you plan to remove, until you are eventually not pushing the pedal at all. At this point, you should be able to move that foot to the crown. The disadvantage of this is that unlike having a foot on the crown or pressing your calf to the frame, you have no control with the left leg on the frame, which actually makes it easier.
3. Hold onto a wall, fence or similar object. Place one foot on its pedal, and the other foot on the crown. Do a few exaggerated idles like this, slowly getting the pedal with the foot on it to about the 10 O'Clock position. At this point, push the pedal down and around, and when it gets to the bottom try to stop pushing it so it can come back up. You are now in a position where you can push the pedal around as many times as you like. Remember to keep your weight forward at all times, or your unicycle can shoot out from under you and leave you falling to the ground backside-first.


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СообщениеДобавлено: Чт дек 22, 2005 7:13 pm 
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Idling

Some people find it easier to learn to ride backwards before learning to idle, and some prefer to learn idling first, but either way you do it they're complementary skills. Learning one will improve your skills at the other.

Start going forwards on flat ground, and slow down by resisting the pedals so that you almost come to a stop when your pedals are horizontal and your stronger foot is behind. The unicycle will be slightly in front of you. (If it isn't, lean back a little.) Push moderately hard down on this pedal.

Now with your stonger foot in front. Push down again. Work on making it all one fluid motion, rather than stopping or hesitating when the pedals are horizontal. Also work on minimizing the travel needed to idle: 45 degrees is a good starting goal, rather than 180 (horizontal-to-horizontal).
[edit]

One foot idling

As you idle, put your back foot on the crown when your pedals are horizontal, while you continue to idle. It helps if you have practiced to keep all the pressure on one foot first. If you know how to idle, one foot idle is not that far away.

To go from one foot idling to one foot riding directly, you'll need to build up some momentum by idling in increasing arcs, often over 180 degrees (pedals going above horizontal). To learn to freemount to one-foot idling, place the uni in front of you, and place one foot on the pedal. Push down, and at the same time, quickly put the other foot directly from the ground to the crown. This is easier than it sounds.


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СообщениеДобавлено: Чт дек 22, 2005 7:14 pm 
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Backwards riding

Backwards riding is pretty much the same as forwards riding except in the opposite direction.

There are two ways most people learn backwards riding.

* Learn to idle first

If you can idle, you can learn to go backwards in steps. Do an idle and then let the wheel go one whole rotation backwards into another idle. Once you've got that, practice doing 2 rotations back, then 3 and so on. After a while you'll be going backwards.

* Just go for it

Grab onto something to start off from, let go, ride backwards, repeat. It might help doing this beside a rail or a wall to hold onto to start off with, or with a helper.

In both methods, there are a few important things to know.

* It's easier to ride backwards without looking behind you. When you're learning, look behind and check it's clear before you ride. Once you've learnt to ride backwards, you can practice looking behind while riding backwards.

* If you're scared of riding backwards into the unknown, stand off the unicycle and practice running backwards through your practice area to help your confidence. Also if the area is limited in size, have visual clues on the ground so you can see before you get to the wall.

* Playing hockey is a great way to learn riding backwards, I pretty much learnt it by mistake by playing hockey regularly

* Try starting against a wall, car, post, etc. I find that easier.


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Seat out skills


Riding seat in front

This is riding with your feet on the pedals as normal, but with the seat held out in front of you.

There are three parts to this skill. It's probably best to practice 2 first and then learn 1 and 3.

1) Taking the seat out from under you.

Stop briefly, stand up tall on the pedals and pull the seat out. It's a bit easier if you stand with your toes on the pedals, rather than the arch of your foot. Some people find it easiest to pull the seat out with one hand, then grab the side of the seat to hold on to with the other hand. Obviously, this is easier with the seat a bit lower. Very curved seats, such as Kris Holm and Velo seats are designed more so they don't come out from under you when riding technical muni and trials, and therefore tend to be a bit more difficult to pull out than less curved seats, but it is certainly possible with any seat.

2) Riding along with seat in front.

Hold the side of the seat with your hand and ride along. To start with hold the seat so it is in front of you, but still touching your body. When you get better, you can hold it further away. You need to make sure you're not putting more pressure on one pedal and try to pedal very smoothly.

3) Putting the seat back under you.

Stand up tall on the pedals, quickly push the seat back under you and ride off before you fall over.
[edit]

Riding seat out back


See above and replace in front with in back as appropriate.
[edit]

Seat on side

Riding seat on side is level five, so it's about as difficult as wheel walking. This is one skill that is a lot easier on a 20" wheel. It is still possible to learn it on a 24" wheel, and that's the perspective from which I write.

To start with, practice riding in circles with seat out in back. When you are comfortable with this, lean a little while turning, and slip the seat aound on your side. The hard part is avoiding scraping you leg with the tire, while still getting you leg properly between the the seat and wheel. It helps to go slow, squat down a fair amount, lean back, and even move you foot so it's half off the end of the pedal. This may not be necessary on a 20" unicycle. You can also do spins in this postion, or go backward, if you practice enough.
[edit]

Chin on seat

Chin on seat is exactly what it sounds like; you crouch down really low while riding seat in front, plant you chin on the seat, and let go of it with your hands. Obviously, the first step is to practice crouching down while riding seat in front. This is rather awkward, and puts a lot of strain on your knees. Pretty soon, you will be able to touch the seat with your chin, for short periods of time. Now try to press harder and harder with your chin, until you feel fairly stable. Then let go of the seat with your hand. This skill is similar to seat drag in several ways; you must ride fast, and shift your weight from side to side to keep the wheel from wobbling. It's easier than seat drag, but not as much fun. It might be a good preparatory exercise for seat drag. Once you can do both, try transitioning from chin on seat to seat drag, simply by standing up from chin on seat and letting the seat drop. This skill is undeniably ridiculous, but it's still a good one to learn, if only for the sake of thoroughness.


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Seat in front one-footed


Seat drags front and back

For seat drag, you first have to learn to ride with the seat in front or in back well extended. When you are comfortable with this, ride along quickly, and as smoothly as possible, so that the seat is not wobbling in your hand. I don't think it really matters what position the pedals are in when you drop the seat. Once you have dropped the seat, try to continue riding for as long as possible, although at first you will probably fall off immediately. When working on seat drag, as with the ultimate wheel, don't wear shorts unless you have some leg armour, because otherwise your shins will quickly get scratched up. While riding dragseat, try to go fast, as this will give you more stability. You have to shift your weight from side to side as you turn the pedals somewhat, to avoid inducing excessive wobbling. I do not find that there is much difference between seat drag in front and back, except that seat drag in front is easier, since you can see how the saddle is wobbling, and make the appropriate adjustments. When you fall off in front, try to jump forward a ways, (your momentum will generally carry you forward in any case) so that you don't step on the seat and damage it.

Once you are comfortable with seat drag in front, you can learn to pick the seat up again. I find the pick up to be easier if I am riding more slowly than normal. This makes it easier to lean over. At first just try to lean over and touch the seat post briefly. When you can do this comfortably, simply reach down quickly and confidently and pick it up again.

Getting out of seat drag in back is somewhat more complicated. A lot of riders simply lean very far down and grab the seatpost, but it is also possible to kick it up with you foot or lift it up with your heel. I am most familiar with the latter. Before you switch to seat in back, make sure that you have the toe (not the ball or arch) of the foot you plan to use on the pedal. Turn the heel of this foot as far in as you can, without hitting the crank. Now drop the seat in back and let it drag for a while. Try to ride with as little wobble as possible. To lift the seat again, induce some wobble in the wheel as your foot is coming around in back. This causes the frame to swing around over your heel, so that you get leverage on it. When done properly, this should cause the frame to rise. Catch it with your hand as soon as possible, because otherwise you can end up in seat on side, which can be awkward.


Side ride

Side ride is riding one-footed with the foot on the non-corresponding pedal, and the entire body from the waist down on the same side of the unicycle as the pedal being used. For sake of convenience, I'll assume you're learning it on the left side with the right foot. If you're learning it on the right, reverse the directions.

To start out, stand on the left side of the unicycle, and turn the left pedal so that it's up, in front, nearer vertical than horizontal. Now grasp the seat with both hands, your right hand near the middle of the seat and the left at the front. Rest the saddle tightly against your body. Now set your right foot on the left pedal, and step down on it. It may take a lot of practice to get the first cycle of the wheel. You should rest almost all your weight on the saddle and press your thigh right against it. Press down fairly hard on the first stroke, then as soon as the pedal is down, release all the pressure so that the pedal can come up again. With a lot of practice, you should be able to get the pedal to come up and over again.

Once you can do this consistently focus on actually riding. Side ride goes naturally in a circle to the right. (Assuming you're doing it on the left.) Once you get good at circling to the right you can go straight, or even in a figure eight, but at first you should do a circle to the right. Lean very hard to the right, and do everything you can to get your weight over the wheel, rather than to one side of it. The placement of your free leg is also important; raise it forward, and as much to the right as possible. It might even help to try placing it directly above the wheel. Keep your foot pressure on the pedal light and put all your weight on the seat.


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Wheel walking skills


Wheel walking

Some people think that the best way to start wheel walking is to begin near a wall, carry out the movements while holding onto the wall and then eventually try it away from the wall. Me personally, I think its better to start away from the wall, usually means you learn quicker. You can either start from idling or start as a mount. Neither way is easier than the other, unless you can't idle. With your first foot push forward with your toes and then stop with you heel. Try to get as much distance as possible in one push, then as your other foot holds the wheel still, do the same thing with the remaining foot toe heel, toe heel, toe heel etc. Keep you back straight and try to lean back. As with many unicycling tricks this doesn't come instantly and will take some time, but don't give up; some days can be better than others.
[edit]

One foot wheel walking

Although there are some exceptions, people generally find one foot wheel walking more difficult than wheel walking with both feet. One method of learning to one foot wheel walk is to start beside a wall (or some other support) with one foot planted firmly on the crown of the frame and the other resting on the top of the tyre. You should always have an upright posture when one foot wheel walking as it is generally done pretty slowly and you'll have more control this way. This skill requires reasonably fast foot-work which will only come with practise.

While holding your support, push the tyre forwards about 10cm or 4" (a longer push may be neccessary if you're trying it on a wheel that's larger than 20") then lightly and quickly drag your foot along the tyre back to it's original position. Eventually you'll want to be able to drag your foot back lightly enough that the wheel still rolls forward the whole time. This will result in a much more controlled and impressive technique and can also lead to gliding. You should only really have the front half of your foot in contact with the tyre. One foot wheel walking requires not only fast 'paces', but also for these paces to come in reasonably quick succession. Always keep your arms out wide for balance.

Once you feel comfortable one foot wheel walking beside a support, try leaving the support after a few metres, then riding into a one foot wheel walk unassisted. To do this, you should reasonbly slowly, then lean back a little and pause on the spot while stepping up. Generally it's easiest to pause with your dominant foot down and back and the pedals somewhere between horizontal and about 45 degrees. Then you must quickly step up directly to the tyre with your non-dominant foot, and follow with your dominant foot (which goes to the crown). Then you're ready to kick the tyre forwards again and start one foot wheel walking. Once you've got the hang of this you can also try going into the one foot wheel walk without the pause by doing a little glide (allowing the wheel to drag forwards under your foot) with the non-dominant foot.


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Standup wheel walking

Stand-up wheel walk is riding, standing on the frame with one foot, and propelling the wheel with the other. It has an IUF skills list value of 5.0, but it's not on the skill levels. Before learning it, you should be fairly steady with one-footed wheel walk, and prefferably also be able to glide a little. You need a unicycle with a good sized square fork that you can stand on comfortably, and also a good-sized seat you can grab well with your knees/calves.

The first step in learning this skill is to figure out how to get into it. While holding onto the seat with one hand, and some sort of support with the other, transfer your favorite one-foot wheel walking foot so that it is on the fork and the wheel. Put the other foot on the fork. Position this foot carefully, as it will support most of your weight. I find it works best to put my instep on the fork, not my heel or the ball of my foot. Now lean back a little, and stand up carefully. When you feel steady, move your driving foot down so that it touches only the tire. Turn it in a good ways, so that you are somewhat pigeon-toed. You should be able to move your foot freely. Practice moving along a wall, or while being guided by a spotter until you have some idea how to make the wheel move. Now try to move away from the wall. Make sure you stand up straight; don't hold the seat, don't look at your feet. The motion for stand-up wheel walk is a bit different from one-footed wheel walk. You don't just use your leg to move the wheel; you should try to move the wheel with a kicking motion using your whole body. Different riders do this skill different ways; some push more with the foot, while others use mostly a full body motion and changing of pressure. The first is more stable, while the latter is faster and easier to balance sideways. In either case, you do short stand-up glides between steps. This can be scary, but it's necessary for learning. This is a very satisfying skill to learn, if only because of the extra height it gives you.

As for the transitions, there are several ways to do it. You can ride, idle or hop, then jump onto the frame, with or without holding the seat, and possibly doing a 180 or 360 unispin on the way up, or you can plant your feet on the fork and stand up from riding, idling, one-footed wheel walk, or gliding. To get into it from riding, ride along slowly while holding the seat, then when your driving foot is near the top of a cycle, plant it on the wheel and fork and brake, leaning back a fair amount. Now in one swift motion, transfer the other foot to the frame, stand up, move your driving foot down, and start taking quick steps. You need to go really fast for the first couple steps. The main thing to remember is to lean back and do it fast. Getting into it from gliding works basically the same way, except you take a long time to brake the wheel before standing up.


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Backward wheel walk

When you first start learning backward wheel walk, I recommend doing it barefoot and in a open room with a ceiling against which you can brace yourself. The advantage of working with a ceiling is that you can get a feel for the motion while still being able to steer normally, whereas with a wall you will be unable to go off in the direction of the wall. If you are uncomfortable with barefoot riding, use some flexible shoes that are not very bulky. When you are working on backward wheel walk, your feet get tangled up very easily and it's hard to get a good grip on the wheel. Doing it barefoot helps solve this problem.

The posture for backward wheel walk is a lot more forward than regular wheel walk. I try to lean my upper body forward, but lean my lower body and the seatpost back, so that I will have more room for my feet. For backward wheel walk, you generally hold your arms straight out to the side. Its hard to say why this helps, but it does.

Backward wheel walk is even slower than forward wheel walk. Try to move your feet in small circles, closely following each other, and push the wheel mostly with your heels. Use your whole foot if you can, but you might find that if you try to use more than the heel, your feet will get tangled up.

If you are having trouble getting into backward wheel walk from idling, concentrate on making the idling smooth and as straight as possible. On the last stroke before moving your feet to the wheel, idle out faster and farther than normal. When the wheel rolls back, it will have some backward momentum which is very useful when getting started. You can also get into this skill from forward wheel walk by coming to a stop, leaning back slightly and holding still for a minute, then reversing direction. Getting out of this skill is pretty straightforward.


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Backward wheel walk one-footed

Once you can wheel walk backward, learn to do it one-footed. The posture for this skill is pretty much the same as for regular backward wheel walk, except you should lean the seatpost back even farther, and and your upper body forward even farther, to get the necessary room for the strokes. You also use mostly your heel. Unlike in one-foot wheel walk forward, it is very difficult to let the wheel glide along your foot between strokes. Instead, you have to coast briefly between each step. Since it is only for a split second it shouldn't be to hard. One thing to concentrate on is letting the wheel roll between strokes so that you can build up speed and momentum, rather than stopping it at the end of each stroke. The latter way feels awkward and won't look very good. Although the IUF skills list puts backward wheel walk one-footed at 5.4 points compared to 4.2 points for regular backward wheel walk, the disparity in difficulty between these two skill is not actually very large.


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Backward spoke walk

Despite the name of the skill, it does not necessarily involve sticking your feet in the spokes. The essence of this skill is wheel walking backwards with the feet behind the frame, contacting the sides of the tire, the rim and possibly the spokes. In my opinion, this is the easiest kind of backward wheel walk, although the ease of learning different skills varies wildly between unicyclists. As when learning regular backward wheel walk, you may find it useful to try this skill barefoot and while holding onto a ceiling, for the same reasons given for regular backward wheel walk.

This is a fairly simple skill to learn. First experiment, while holding onto a ceiling or wall, with putting your feet behind the frame on the sides of the wheel and propelling it. If you are trying it barefoot, be careful to keep your toes out of the spokes. Whatever your footwear, you have to press very hard against the sides of the wheel in order to get enough grip. Also, the tire and shoes you are using can make a big difference. After a little practice, you should be able to get into this skill from idling, and go several meters. It is fairly normal for the wheel to wobble from side to side, because of how hard you must press against the tire/rim. What makes this trick easier than regular backward wheel walk is that you are pushing the wheel, not pulling it, so it's quite a bit like standard wheel walk. To get out of this skill, simply put your feet on the pedals and ride out backward. When you are comfortable with this and regular backward wheel walk, it can be fun to switch repeatedly between the two.


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Forward spoke walk

Spoke walk is one of very few tricks that is easier to do backward than forward. It can be done forward, however. You should learn backward spoke walk first, and preferably also regular backward wheel walk, since forward spoke walk, like backward wheel walk, involves pulling the wheel. As with many wheel walking variations, this one is probably easiest learned barefoot, and while using a ceiling. You need a wall, at least. While holding onto something, take your feet off the pedals and put them on the sides of the tire, behind the frame. Now lean forward a little, and try to pull the wheel forward. In order to get any kind of traction, you must press very hard against the sides of the wheel. Also, try to arrange your feet so as to maximize the area of the foot contacting the tire. It may help to turn your heels in so that they are on top of the tire while keeping your toes near the rim. At first, you can only take very small steps, but try to make your steps as big as possible. Lean forward just a little bit and concentrate on exactly how you are moving your feet. The motion is nearly straight upward. Try getting into this skill from idling, riding, and other ways of wheel walking. To get out, just return your feet to the pedals.


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Koosh-koosh

The unusual name of this skill is said to come from the sound you hear when you do it. It is also supposed to be one of the easiest ways to wheel walk backward.

For koosh-koosh, you one foot on the unicycle so that the heel is on the fork and the toe is on touching the tire. The other foot can be placed two ways; either somewhat upright with the toe on the wheel or upside down with the shoelaces on the wheel. You use the foot behind the frame to push the wheel backward and the foot in front of the frame to hold the wheel in position while moving the other foot back forward. If you know how to do this skill, please write some adivce.


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One-footed backward lace walk

This skill is quite similar to koosh-koosh, except the foot on the frame does not contact the wheel at all, and the driving foot behind the frame has to be placed upside down with the shoelaces on the wheel. (Thus the name.) Koosh-koosh has a standard skill value of 3.9 while one-footed backward lace walk has a value of 5.0. One-footed backward lace walk is faster and smoother and so is probably more visually attractive than koosh-koosh, so you should consider learning it. Another good reason to learn it is that it can lead up to backward gliding. Before learning this skill, you should probably learn either spoke walk or koosh-koosh, although neither is really necessary.

As with most wheel walking skills, you will have to work from a wall or ceiling at first. I don't recommend doing it barefoot, because the friction between the top of your foot and the wheel tends to scrape your skin off fairly quickly. I didn't find this skill to be very hard to learn, so I don't have much to say about it. It feels a lot like normal one-footed wheel walk in that you push, relax pressure, glide while moving your foot back into position, and push again. If you go fairly quickly balance may be slightly easier.

The transitions for this skill can be hard. Try it from idling or from koosh-koosh if you have already learned that. An alternative method is to take one step of regular backward wheel walk with your non-driving foot, then position your driving foot, set the other foot on the frame and push off. You can also get into it from spoke walk and other backward wheel walk variations. The simplest way to get out is to come to a stop and wheel walk out of it forward, beginning with the foot on the frame.


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One-footed forward lace walk

One-footed lace walk can be done forward as well as backward, although the forward variation is a bit harder. Before learning this skill you should be comfortable with forward spoke walk and one-footed backward lace walk, and a little work with coasting wouldn't hurt.

You should learn this skill with a wall or ceiling, or whatever other method you use for learning wheel walking variations. Lean forward and position your foot as low on the wheel as possible, with as much of the top of your foot touching the wheel as possible, so that you can get enough grip to move the wheel. You have to pull very hard at first and take very big steps, removing your foot from the wheel and repositioning it between each step. While repositioning your foot you have to coast briefly. If you have a square frame you should be careful to avoid scraping your shin on its corner.

You can transition to this skill directly from riding or idling, but I think the easiest method is to take one wheel walk step forward with your non-driving foot and hold the wheel in place while you position your driving foot. To get out of it, switch to regular wheel walking.


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